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Posts Tagged ‘Noise’

5 Common Noises Your Car Might Make

5 Common Noises Your Car Might Make

SHHHHHH, did you hear that? It sounds like it is going to explode! Is it coming from the engine or is that the transmission? No wait that is coming from the rear of the car. Dude… Pull over!

When your car starts making odd and they are sounds that you are not used to hearing, it can be bewildering. All cars will produce some sort of noise. It develops what some people refer to as a “character,” and these noises become part of the performance of the car. Noises such as these do not necessarily mean anything is wrong with your vehicle, we all get to know the noises of our cars, until one day it makes a noise that stands out from the “character” sounds. That’s when we tune in and become concerned. The following list explains some of these noises and what they may indicate.

1. Clicking and Tapping Sounds

A perceptible tapping or engine clicking noise coming from the front of your car will draw your attention. Your ears will perk up and you will tune in to the noise, open a window and try to figure out what is going on. The tapping or clicking will increase as you accelerate and become faster. This could be a lifter or what is known as a ‘tappet,’ or the upper valve train. The causes could be a number of issues stemming from worn parts. It could also indicate that the oil pressure is low. Check your oil pressure gauge when you hear this sound and follow the guidelines to determine the exact problem. Take the dipstick out and make sure you have enough oil. If the oil is fine head to your mechanics for some advanced diagnostics.

2. Deep Knocking Noises

Sounds like these are usually a sign of deep trouble and you should be concerned. ‘Rod knocking’ sounds could mean that one part deep inside the engine has worn out. If your rod bearings have worn completely out or become too loose, it is only a matter time before the bearings fail. In this case, you should not use the car until the knocking engine noise has been fully and properly tested, diagnosed and repaired.

3. Rattling and Droning Sounds

If you hear a drawn out droning or rattling engine noise from your car when you accelerate it could possibly be your camshaft belt is badly aligned or slipping. Have your belt checked or look it over yourself if you have the knowledge needed. It should really be fixed by a good mechanic; otherwise, if you don’t know exactly what you are doing, you could have more trouble further down the road.

4. Squealing when Accelerating

This is an unmistakable sound and it is quite ear splitting. This is your fan belt frankly telling you it is in a bit of pain. The fan belt can loosen over time and when you start your engine the fan belt can squeal when the rubber teeth underneath it start to drag. If the fan belt is loose, it will not be able to move at the same tempo as the pulleys, which control it, thus creating the intense squealing noise. If this happens with your vehicle, you should look in the manual for repair procedures and tighten it correctly. It may have worn to the point that it needs to be replaced.

5. Grinding Noise

If you hear a deep grinding noise, it may be your brakes. Have the front brake pads checked for signs of complete wear. If the metal is grinding against the rotors, you should have already had the brakes inspected some time ago and will likely have incurred some additional parts expense.

Noises by nature can be tricky to diagnosis. Sometimes they are there and sometime they are not. A noise that is coming from the rear can travel and sound like it is originating from the front. If you have any uncertainty, it is probably best to have the noise check by a professional with specialized equipment. This will guarantee that you car is diagnosed right the first time, saving you time and money.

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Front Suspension Noise? It Could Be the Ball Joints

Front Suspension Noise? It Could Be the Ball Joints

Front Suspension Noise, Could it be Your Ball Joints?

 

Your hand is on the steering wheel and you’re easing around a curve or bouncing on a bumpy road. You don’t think much about the connection between your wrist movement and the movement of the front suspension and wheels of your car. But the connection is there, a complicated system of rods, links, arms, joints, and spindles make up your cars front suspension.

A pivotal part of this system is the ball joint, which operates something like the ball–and–socket joint in your hip. It has a round–head part that swivels in a cuplike cavity.

There are normally four of these ball joints in your car’s front suspension. Typically, there is an upper and lower ball joint for each front wheel. These durable devices can swivel smoothly for years without giving any trouble, in spite of dirt, mud, bumps, and jolts. Eventually they do get worn and the balls don’t fit in the sockets as snugly as they once did.

The time may come when you take your car to the shop because it’s making a funny noise, or it shimmies, or the steering is erratic, and the tires are getting scuffed because the front suspension and alignment is off. What’s wrong? Could it be that the ball joints are wearing out?  How does the mechanic know, and how do you know?

Typical Front Suspension

There is a way to measure the looseness of a ball joint. Some States require that any time an auto repair dealer offers to replace one of your car’s ball joints, that the movement of the old ball joint must be measured with an instrument designed for that purpose. The measurement must be written on the invoice, along with a statement of what the manufacturer says is the maximum allowable wear of the old ball joint. Knowing these numbers, you can decide for yourself whether you want to have the ball joint replaced or not.

If your car has wear–indicating ball joints, a little measure boss or tab shows you when it is time to replace the ball joint.

If the car has mechanically adjustable ball joints, your mechanic should adjust them according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Before any work is done on your car, the automotive repair shop should provide you with a written estimated and a complete price. You will be asked to authorize the work by

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signing a work order that states the recommended repairs, the estimated price, and the car’s odometer reading. No additional work should be done, and the price should not change, unless you give further authorization for additional repairs. This is exactly why you should have a mechanic you can trust and one you know well.

 

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Venice AAMCO

AAMCO Transmissions of Venice
252 U.S. 41 Bypass S.
Venice, FL 34285
(941) 488-4411
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