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4 Steps to Restore Your Cars Headlights!

4 Steps to Restore Your Cars Headlights!

The plastic lens over your headlight is as cloudy as a bathroom mirror right after a shower. No wonder you can’t see. There is a way to fix this.

 

Clearing away haze

Most cars and many trucks today are manufactured with headlamp assemblies that use quartz-halogen bulbs plugged into the back of a large plastic reflector. The outer surface of these headlamp modules is molded polycarbonate plastic. That plastic is much lighter than glass and far more resistant to stone chips and cracks. However, after a few years of exposure to sunlight and atmospheric chemicals, polycarbonate has a tendency to get hazy. Severely neglected lenses can actually pit and develop a network of fine cracks, called craze, which makes the job of fixing them tougher. It’s worth a shot, though—and you’ll need only a few bucks’ worth of materials to get the job done. Sure, these assemblies are easy to replace, but they can be very expensive. A pair of lenses for a luxury car can cost as much as a thousand dollars. No thank you!

Fortunately, there’s a simple and inexpensive solution. Unlike glass, the polycarbonate plastic can be polished back to a surface as smooth as new, in a procedure that won’t take more than a half-hour.

 

Mask off

Wash your car to remove any surface dirt. Waxing it, at least within a foot or two of the headlamps, is a good idea, because drips and droplets of the abrasive polishing compound are less likely to adhere to a freshly waxed surface.

Head out to the store and buy some blue, low-tack painter’s masking tape, the handy stuff that peels off easily. Mask the area around the headlamp that needs to be polished. You may want to remove nearby trim, especially chromed metal or chrome-finish plastic, because you’ll be polishing and sanding with materials that can destroy the chrome.

 

Elbow Grease

There are prepackaged kits intended specifically for the task. 3M and Permatex both sell a kit containing everything you need for around 10 bucks. You can also buy the sandpaper and polishing compound individually. If you only need to do one pair of headlights, it’s cheaper to buy the kit instead of the sandpaper one sheet at a time.

Assuming your lens is only moderately obscured. Start the repair with polishing compound and a flannel or microfiber cloth. Smear some compound on the lens and polish in a circular motion. As the polish gets ground into the cloth and dries out, it lifts the haziness right off the lens. Most of the compound eventually winds up on the cloth, but it probably takes about 10 minutes of rubbing per lens, so don’t be in a rush. If you have an orbital polisher, you can use that with a lambs wool or terry cloth pad. Don’t polish the paint off nearby surfaces. Simply proceed with compound until the lens is shiny.

 

The Pits

Okay, you’ve been polishing one corner of the lens for a few minutes, and it’s better—but not perfect. The lens surface is far too degraded for the polishing compound to rescue it. There are still pits that you can feel and see.

Soak a piece of 1000-grit wet/dry sandpaper in cold water for 10 minutes. Lightly sand the lens in straight strokes. Methodically cover the entire lens surface, always sanding back and forth in one direction. Keep the surface wet while you work. Be careful not to damage nearby paint or trim.

Sand until the pits, discoloration and scratches you’re trying to eliminate are gone. This takes time. Also, don’t be afraid to dry the surface with a towel and check the uniformity of your sanding. When you’re done, clean and dry the area.

Now perform the same operation with 1500-grit wet/dry sandpaper, this time sanding at right angles to your previous work. Again, be methodical. Keep the paper wet, cover the entire surface and then clean up to remove any abrasive powder. Repeat the procedure, every time at right angles to the last sanding, with 2000-, 2500- and 3000-grit wet/dry. Clean up one last time. You might want to touch up or redo the masking tape along the way if it starts looking a little tattered.

Now go back to your compound and flannel to hand-polish out the final patina of scratches. Your lens should look like new—shiny and clear.

Be certain you clean off all the abrasive polishing compound. Now wax the lens thoroughly with a paste car wax. This last step will keep acid rain, dirt and road salt from attacking the plastic, at least for a while.

Happy illuminated traveling!

 

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A Guide to Changing Your Cars Headlight

A Guide to Changing Your Cars Headlight
In the old days, replacing a headlight seemed to be as complicated as a root canal. The lamp had to be completely removed. Today, cars and trucks come with headlight bulbs that plug into the back of the headlight lens housing. If your headlight goes out, replacing the bulb is simple and takes very little time–but it is a critical part of car maintenance and your safety.

You’d think that, considering the importance of vehicle lighting, there would be more information on the subject. Maybe it’s because the headlights or taillights on most cars and trucks rarely cause any trouble, if any at all. If they do, many people automatically take the vehicle to the dealership or a service center to have the light replaced.

Take this to heart; the inspection and/or replacement of the various lights on your car or truck are less involved than you might believe. When a light (such as a headlight or taillight) quits working on your vehicle, changing out the old bulb for a new one is, in most cases, very easy. Usually, changing the lighting on most of today’s cars doesn’t require many tools. In fact, the only tool that would be needed to change a taillight bulb in most cars is a Phillips screwdriver. No tools are needed to access the headlights. There’s only one screw holding the taillight housing to the car. The inside thumbscrew is accessible from inside the back of the car and can be turned with your hand.

Accessing headlights is even easier. In fact, changing a headlight in your car or truck isn’t that much different from replacing a light bulb in your home.

1. The inspection of vehicle lighting begins with a periodic checking of their operation. Headlights are easy. For taillights, you might need someone to stand behind the vehicle while you operate the running lights, brake lights and turn signals. You can also check for the function of these items by backing the vehicle up near a window and looking at the reflection through the back window. The owner’s manual is one of the most important tools for replacing vehicle lighting. You don’t need to run off to the dealership just to replace a taillight, headlight or any other light in your car. Just look at the manual, and it will tell you how to access the lights and the type of replacement to acquire. Most auto parts stores stock a full line of vehicle lights.

2. If a taillight or brake light (almost always the same bulb) isn’t working, you need to access it for replacement. On some cars, you can get to the taillights just by pulling the socket out from inside the trunk.

3. Inside the storage area there’s generally one plastic thumbscrew holding the housing in place. Once that’s removed, the housing separates from the car.

4. With the thumbscrew and Phillips head screw removed, the entire housing lifts up away from the car.

5. To access the bulb in the housing, simply turn the bulb socket counterclockwise as far as possible and pull it out of the housing. Here you can inspect the bulb and see if it’s burned out. If the filament is broken, then the bulb needs to be replaced. To remove the bulb from the socket, hold the socket with one hand and pull the bulb out with the other. Some sockets require that you turn the bulb to remove it. This type of setup has notches in the socket, and the bulb is keyed with tabs on the base of the bulb so it fits in the socket only one way. Most vehicles, however, are simply a plug-in setup.

6. The standard taillight (or running light) and brake light are contained in the same bulb. Both filaments are visible here for both functions. If one of the two filaments is broken, then the bulb needs to be replaced.

7. At the front are the headlights, side marker lights and optional driving lights. Replacing the headlights and side marker lights is a snap. No tools are required.

8. Access to the headlights is from under the hood or under the front end of the vehicle. The plastic bulb cover rotates counterclockwise and comes off in your hand.

9. The headlight is a bulb unlike a sealed-beam lamp as used in older cars. A sealed-beam headlamp usually has two or three screws and a ring around the headlamp that hold it in place. Once the light is removed, it unplugs. Getting back to the headlight bulb, it removes and installs much like a standard taillight bulb. The three-pronged setup makes it so the bulb will only install one way. It is a simple process. In some vehicles, a wire clip holds the bulb in place inside the headlight housing. It swivels out of the way for removal and re-installation.

10. The filaments in the headlights are similar to those in a standard taillight. There are usually two filaments — one for the low beams and one for the high beams. If your car has separate lights for high and low beams, then there will only be one filament inside the bulb.

11. Access to the side marker lights is under the front fender. Simply hold on to the socket and turn it counterclockwise to remove it from the housing. Inspection of the bulb is the same as with the others. Check to see if the filament is broken. If so, then a replacement will be necessary.

If you suspect that the positioning of your new headlight may have been disturbed while you changed it, have it checked before you drive at night. Otherwise, you are ready to go.

 

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Venice AAMCO

AAMCO Transmissions of Venice
252 U.S. 41 Bypass S.
Venice, FL 34285
(941) 488-4411
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