Repair & Maintenance Advise Archives « Page 2 of 5 • AAMCO Transmissions of Venice

What To Do If You Have An Engine Oil Leak

By Dallas Council on October 2, 2012 / Do It Your Self, General Interest, Repair & Maintenance Advise, Uncategorized / Leave a comment

You get in your car and find that your car has an engine oil leak. You know you must quickly find where the oil is leaking. Oil leaks can happen in many places and it can be perplexing to find a difficult oil leak in your engine compartment.

You can save a lot of time and hassle by considering the most common causes of engine oil leaks. First, do a quick overview of the basics–oil filter, oil drain plug and the oil cap. One of these could easily be the source of the problem. Second, the most common cause of oil leaks is the valve cover gasket. This is a more difficult problem to diagnose.

Here are some ways to detect an oil leak

First, open the hood and look for an obvious oil leak. Yes, it sounds over simplified, but basic troubleshooting will tell you to check the simple things first. Look at any area where pieces are connected together. If there is a bolt holding two metal pieces together, there is probably a gasket between them. Gaskets are common places oil can leak from so look for a few minutes to find as many as you can and wipe each area clean with a rag, shop towels, or paper towels.

Next, clean each of the possible areas that could have an oil leak. The areas must be cleaned so you can see bare metal. Check each area daily to see if any new oil is building up. Look at the lines between engine parts. Look at the oil filter and the oil plug.

You can place clean newspaper or cardboard under your car when it is parked over night. Before you start the car the next day, look to see where the oil drips are located. The engine oil leak will be in that general area. Keep in mind that there are many small spaces and crevices in your engine compartment. The leak can be high in the engine and could run down and across many parts. This can make it hard to find the oil leak.

Found the oil leak – Now what?

All the work you did to find the leak is just part of the solution. Finding the engine oil leak, yourself is good and can save you money and time when you get to your mechanic. Make a note of where the leak is and make sure you tell them exactly where it’s located.

Can’t find the oil leak?

It’s a good idea to have your engine compartment thoroughly cleaned or steam cleaned. If the engine oil leak is slow, wait a day and take the vehicle to your mechanic for a complete diagnosis. If you find a fast leak, head

Having trouble finding the leak on your own? Click here and let us diagnosis it for you FREE

straight to mechanic. Do not pass go and collect $200.00 for saving your future self the cost of more repairs caused by an undetected engine oil leak.

Remember, the engine oil is a critical part of your automobile. without oil your car would die.

5 Myths You Must Know About Your Tires

By Dallas Council on September 27, 2012 / General Interest, Repair & Maintenance Advise / 2 Comments

Tires are perhaps the most important component on your vehicle. They are however, among the least understood features. Here are a few common misconceptions about tires.

I have a tire-pressure monitoring system in my new car so I will just know that my tires are adequately inflated.

The truth: the tire pressure monitoring system isn’t required to issue a warning until pressure is 25 percent below the vehicle manufacturer’s recommendation. That is way below the pressure required for safe driving, according to AAA and not even close to adequate in carrying the vehicle’s maximum load. The tire pressure monitoring system is intended as a last-minute warning before impending tire failure, so pay attention to your tire pressure on a regular basis.

Buy a quality tire gauge and set your tire pressure to at least the vehicle manufacturer’s recommendation found on the driver’s doorjamb. It is preferable that you set your tires 3 or even 5 psi high rather than 1 low. Tires can leak as much as 1 psi per month. If you’re like many drivers, you may not bother to check your tires again for six months.

When replacing only two tires, the new ones go on the front.

The truth: The rear tires that provide stability, without stability, steering or braking on a wet or damp surface might cause a spin. With the new tires up front, they will easily disperse water while the half-worn rears go surfing. The water will literally lift the worn rear tires off the road. If you’re in a slight corner or on a crowned road, the car will spin out so fast you won’t be able to control the car.

There is no what if to this one. Regardless of owning a front, rear or all-wheel-drive car, truck, or SUV, the tires with the most tread go on the rear.

A tire is in danger of bursting if pressure exceeds the max press number on the sidewall.

The truth: The max press number has nothing to do with a tire’s burst pressure. The max press and max load numbers indicate the pressure at which the tire will carry the maximum amount of weight. A new, quality tire will not pop at an even multiple of the max press.

Low-profile tires on large-diameter wheels improve handling.

The truth: The short sidewalls of low-profile tires enhance the tires’ response when the driver first turns the steering wheel. That gives the driver the sometimes-false feeling the tire has a solid grip. After that initial movement, it’s the tread compound; the stickiness of the rubber that determines how well the tire grips the road.

All tires with the same designation are exactly the same size.

The truth: Think all 225/35R19s are exactly 225 millimeters wide and their sidewalls are exactly 35 percent as tall as the tire is wide? Don’t count on it.

All the tires of a specific part number or stock keeping unit (SKU) can be can be slightly wider or narrower than the nominal width and their profile can be slightly taller or shorter than the stated percentage. Remember that a wider, taller tire puts more rubber on the ground so it is imperative that you not your car tend to your tires on a regular basis. Monthly is best.

Factoring in the Cost of Auto Repair

By Dallas Council on September 11, 2012 / Do It Your Self, General Interest, Repair & Maintenance Advise / Leave a comment

When you buy a car, you consider things like cash or finance, you include finance fees and auto insurance and the cars mileage into the total cost of ownership. However, it is the rare buyer, who also considers the cars need for maintenance and auto repair.

Auto repair isn’t cheap and we shouldn’t expect it to be. The cost of repairing a vehicle is based on several factors. The make, model and year of the vehicle affect the cost of auto repair. Of course, the type of auto repair needed determines how much it will cost. Some repairs cost more because the parts involved are more expensive. The cost of auto repair is also determined by the labor rates in your area.

According to one recent study, the average American household spent $5,477 on gas and automotive expenses last year. Of that, $2,208 was for gasoline, the rest a monstrous $3,269 — was for expenses like dealership maintenance, service station fixes and body shop repair. That comes out to $272 a month, which is almost a second car payment [source: Paskin].

Understand that figure is an average, which includes cars of all different makes and model years. Most of us are not paying that amount per month. How much you pay in the end depends on what you choose to purchase. Buy a brand-new Honda Civic or Jeep Grand Cherokee, and your repair costs will likely be lower than if you invest in a 1960s Jaguar sports car or something similar. Remember, buying a brand new car means that a warranty will cover the cost of many auto repairs for a set time.

If you take care of your vehicle, you’ll prevent serious problems down the road. Everything from oil changes to brake pads and tire rotation could save you thousands of dollars down the road, be sure to consult your owner’s manual and your mechanic frequently to see what’s next on your car’s maintenance schedule.

There are benefits to controlling your auto maintenance costs, similar to those you experience when gaining control over any area of your money. Proper budgeting for auto repair and maintenance will allow you to:

* Have a better relationship and better communication with your auto mechanic

* Prepare/plan better so you don’t have to race to get oil changes before your next trip

* Reduce your maintenance expenses going forward

* Relax in the knowledge that you’re prepared

You can achieve all of these things simply by setting aside enough money to cover your expenses. That way you won’t have to stress or worry about where the money Your mechanic can help you know ahead of time on repairs that can be expected early or here are a few tools to help you figure out exactly how much you’re spending so you can budget.

* The Total Cost of Ownership Calculator from Edmunds

* The Car Operating Cost Calculator

The Edmunds tool is only for current car models, the other one works in all situations. Note these tools are very comprehensive, even taking into account depreciation. Have fun, save

The 4 Keys to a Healthy Car … And Life

By Dallas Council on September 4, 2012 / General Interest, Repair & Maintenance Advise / Leave a comment

According to Dr. Walter Bortz, a professor of medicine at Stanford University there are four key areas to the health and vitality of both you and your car.

There is DESIGN:

Designed improperly with little thought or care a car will quickly fall apart. Look at the Honda Civic, a best seller for many years. This vehicle was designed with very strict standards. It was tried and tested many times over before it was made available to the public. Now take the Chevrolet Vega, a poorly engineered car notorious for rust and breakdowns. By its third recall, ninety-five percent of all Vegas manufactured before May 1972 had critical safety flaws.

For your Human design, it is mostly concerned with your inherited genes. Genes are something we can generally do nothing about, however they only add up to about 15% of our total health. Knowing what you have inherited knocks that percentage down even more.

Then there are ACCIDENTS:

These unfortunate incidences happen and you have little or no control over them. When your car accidentally leaves the road and hits a tree or is rammed by another run away driver your car will be hurt or mangled and its health will suffer. This is similar to the human body. You fall from a tree, are hit by a thrown rock or catch a virus or bacteria your body will hurt and your health will suffer. However today there are many advancements and an accident doesn’t have to mean death. A highly trained mechanic can repair your car and you can have it for many years as well.

Now we look at MAINTENANCE:

For your car this means having a good mechanic do oil changes, tire rotation, fluid checks, engine tuning and replacing the worn parts. Ignore these things or do them poorly and you will be significantly lessening the life of your car. Our own human body needs regular maintenance as well. This means eating healthy, not under or over using the body and having regular check ups to maintain your health.

Lastly, we look at AGING:

We’re eventually going to die no matter what we do. Same with our cars, although you could theoretically replace every single part with a new one and still think of it as the same car. However, how well we do maintenance can have a big impact on the rate of aging of our cars and our bodies.

Compared to a car our bodies are far more complex systems and experience much more complex lives. With good care and maintenance both car and driver can have a long healthy life.

The Top 10 Ways to Avoid an Auto Accident

By Dallas Council on August 15, 2012 / General Interest, Repair & Maintenance Advise / Leave a comment

Someone’s car is totaled once every 5 seconds in the US. Avoiding accidents can save you a lot of time and money. If you want to stay safe on the road, the message is clear–stay sober and pay attention. There are a number of actions you can take, to increase your chances of making it through your daily commute accident-free.

1. Keep your car in good condition:

Keep the tires properly inflated, the brakes adjusted, and the windshields and windows clean. Replace windshield wiper blades when they begin to streak, and all make sure all the lights are working properly.

2. Use your signals properly:

Always use your signal, even if you think no one is there. When changing lanes on the freeway, don’t signal as an afterthought or during the lane change. Signal at least a couple of seconds in advance so others know what you’re going to do before you do it.

3. Position all Mirrors for Good Vision:

Every time you get in the car, you should check the positioning of your mirrors. While driving, Periodically shift your eyes to the side-view mirrors, the rear-view mirror, and ahead to where you’ll be in 10-15 seconds. Doing this, you can spot a potentially dangerous situation before it happens.

4. Judge a Car by its Cover:

If it looks like it is never been cared for, you can bet it cares not for you. More important then rust or fading paint, look for a fair amount of dings, dents and hanging parts. This driver, in general, has a perchance for accidents or at times may not even realize they have caused one.

5. Know Your Blind Spots:

Every car has at least one. It is just a fallacy in design. One usually finds their cars blind spots just when you need them to not be there, like when you are changing lanes or backing up. It only takes one long loud horn blowing at you to find your cars blind spot. From there on your blind spot should be forever etched in your brain.

6. Avoid the Left (Fast) Lane:

Most highway accidents happen in the fast lane. Everyone has encountered the car in the left lane that drives just at the speed limit or below and will not move from that left lane for anyone. Don’t be that driver!

7. Never Tailgate:

No matter how slowly traffic is moving, follow the 3-second rule for distance between you and the car ahead. Any less and you won’t be able to stop in time if the driver ahead slams on the brakes.

8. Let others pass you:

Defensive driving means letting others go ahead-not defending your position in traffic. Avoid the urge to have a vigilante, “you’ll see how it is to be cut off now” attitude. Accept the fact that someone is always going to think they’re in more of a hurry than you. The road is not a place for driving competition.

9. Other Drivers:

Pay attention to other vehicles actions, in so doing you can anticipate a hazardous driver and avoid them.

10. Looking both ways:

Before executing a turn, it is important to check both your left and right side for oncoming vehicles Then do it again, in case you missed something the first time. When turning, remember to look right once more to catch any pedestrians that may have appeared suddenly.

Click Here to schedule your FREE safety inspection today…

6 Reasons NOT to Warm Your Car Up Before You Drive

By Dallas Council on August 13, 2012 / General Interest, Repair & Maintenance Advise / Leave a comment

All of those should and should not’s our parents taught us, one of the oldest and still carefully enforced by many drivers, is that “warming up” the car for a few minutes is necessary to avoid some kind of indeterminate damage.

However idling is unnecessary, which is why many communities have enacted ordinances against the practice. Don’t just take anyone’s word about idling being ineffective, listen to your mechanic, most mechanics will say, “You don’t really need to idle your car, because of the efficiency of modern fuel injection, which eliminated carburetors and chokes. The only reason to let the car idle at all is to get the oil circulating, but after 30 seconds, that’s a done deal. Even cars with over 150,000 miles on it, can just be thrown into gear and go.”

Here are some quick facts and tips that should put the idling question to rest:

1. Driving Warms the Car Faster than Idling.

If your concern is not the health of the car, but simply your own creature comforts, the Florida Energy Commission points out “idling is not actually an effective way to warm up a car, it warms up faster if you just drive it.” The coming electric cars, such as the Nissan Leaf, will incorporate a wonderful feature that allows the owner to use a cellphone to tell the car (which is plugged into the grid) to pre-warm or pre-cool the interior. No idling needed.

2. Ten Seconds Is All You Need.

Environmental Defense Fund, which produced the Idling Gets You Nowhere campaign, advises motorists to turn off their ignition if they’re sitting stopped for more than 10 seconds. “After about ten seconds, you waste more money running the engine than restarting it, said Andy Darrell, deputy director of the EDF Energy Program. “Switch the car off at the curb and you’ll be leaving money in your wallet and protecting the air in your community.”

3. Idling Hurts the Car.

Excessive idling can actually damage your engine components, including cylinders, spark plugs, and exhaust systems. An idling engine is not operating at its peak temperature, which means that fuel does not undergo complete combustion. This leaves fuel residue that can condense on cylinder walls, where they can contaminate the oil and damage parts of the engine.

4. Idling Costs Money.

Over a year of five minutes of daily idling a car will waste 20 gallons of gasoline, which not only produces 440 pounds of carbon dioxide but costs at least $60. An idling car is the most inefficient car on the road — it gets zero miles per gallon. Turning off your car will save gas and money. Idling for one hour burns nearly one gallon of gasoline.

5. Idling in the Garage Can Kill You.

Idling a car in a garage, even with the door open, is dangerous and exposes the driver to carbon monoxide and other noxious gases. If the garage is attached, those fumes can also enter the house.

6. Idling is Bad for Your Health (and Your Neighbor’s Health).

Exhaust is hazardous to human health, especially children’s; studies have linked air pollution to increased rates of cancer, heart and lung disease, asthma and allergies.” Isabelle Silverman, who runs EDF’s anti-idling campaign, says that car idling “is the second-hand smoking of the outdoors. One of the problems is that cars idle close to the curb, where pedestrians are walking. When you have a child in a stroller, they are particularly close to the tailpipe. Studies show that children’s IQ levels are lower when they live near major roads with lots of traffic.”

Two New Technoligies In Automobile Safety

By Dallas Council on July 17, 2012 / General Interest, Repair & Maintenance Advise / 2 Comments

Today’s automobile incorporates air bags crumple zones and automatic seatbelts. These products are all intended to protect the driver and passengers in the event of an accident. The next innovations coming up the pike are intended to help you avoid an accident all together.

Collision-avoidance systems would benefit all drivers and, hopefully, reduce the

annual number of U.S. traffic deaths, which is currently over 40,000. These intricate systems have been used in aircraft for years. However adapting such a large application to a vehicle will be a chore as there is a far greater variability of a multitude of different drivers and conditions then are encountered in the air.

Two current technologies undergoing federal guidelines by the Department of Transportation are:

The Carnegie Mellon University study using an experimental station wagon outfitted with a video camera. The camera is pointed straight ahead at the roadway. The camera records the view and downloads the data to a computer, which determines the car’s position. The driver will then be alerted if it looks as though the car is headed off the road or into an obstacle.

The Calspan project uses vehicle-mounted radar that “looks” both sideways and in front of the car—scanning for any other vehicles that are moving fast enough to pose a threat. Steering sensors and accelerometers feed data into the computer to give it a hint of what the driver is intending to do, and the computer examines the logic of the system.

Collision avoidance starts with a system called adaptive cruise control. This is like regular cruise control, but with the addition of radar sensors that can “see” the traffic ahead of you and slow your car to maintain a safe following distance. If you are a notorious tailgater, this system over-rides your own bad driving habit.

Collision avoidance systems can also sound alarms or flash warnings on the windshield if the sensors determine that your car is getting to close to another car too fast. The system will then apply brake pressure perhaps sooner than you would. If the computers and sensors determine that a crash is unavoidable, they also work to tighten up seat belts, adjust headrests, or close the power windows and sunroof to make the car safer in the collision.

Collision avoidance also includes other related technology, like lane departure warning and blind spot monitoring systems. This technology works by using a camera to “see” the road and alert the driver if the car begins to drift out of a lane, or if another car approaches from the side.

The simple is these systems make your car safer. Avoiding accidents isn’t just good for your health it saves time and money that would be spent dealing with the aftermath of a collision, too.

4 Tips for Communicating Better With Your Machanic

By Dallas Council on July 9, 2012 / General Interest, Repair & Maintenance Advise / Leave a comment

Taking your car to the repair shop is never something to shout about; most would rather have a tooth pulled. However there are things you should and should not do and say to your mechanic that will ensure you’re getting a good job for a fair price.

CAR TALK

You should know how to communicate properly with your mechanic. Take note of the sound your car is making if it is a screeching sound when you touch the brakes a shotgun sound from the backend or knocking, be able to demonstrate it to your mechanic. Tell them when you first noticed the symptoms, is there any leaking, does it happen at certain times or under certain conditions.

What you shouldn’t do is suggest to your mechanic what you think the source of the trouble is. Consumer Reports says this could lead to costly repairs that don’t actually fix the problem.

You should always ask for an estimate once your mechanic determines what the problem is. Ask that there be no other charges or repairs without your consent first.

MAKE ROOM

You should clean out your car, you never know what your mechanic has to go into to get to parts of your cars engine and underbody. No need to make them have to dig through strollers, shopping bags and other things you store in your trunk. You’ll save the mechanic time, saving you money and taking a cleaned out car is just plain courtesy.

TAKE A WALK

You should never hang around looking over your mechanic’s shoulder. First it can be dangerous to you both, secondly it is discomforting for anyone in any job to have a shadow. You hired a professional now let them do their job. Take a walk or get a friend to pick you up and return you later when your repair is completed.

If you do leave the shop, make certain you are available for the mechanic should they find other needed repairs or just to communicate with you. Give them a phone number and be able to respond promptly or you could be waiting much longer for your car.

THE VIRTUE

You should practice patience, remember you are not the only one needing a repair and your mechanic probably have several jobs before yours. Ask approximately the repair will take and arrange another way, rental car, friend, to go about your day. The payoff will be a car that is repaired right the first time and for the estimated cost. Now that will make a visit to the repair shop just a bit happier for all of you.

What Does That Light On My Dash Mean?

By Dallas Council on June 18, 2012 / General Interest, Repair & Maintenance Advise, Uncategorized / Leave a comment

What’s with all these lights? this one flashes. That one flickers. The other one beeps. While these two flash and beep. It can be something minor or something major, lets take a look…

	ABS Warning Light – This Light will come one when the OBD (On Board Diagnostic) Systems detects a problem with the Anti-Lock Braking System. Be cautions because when this light is on you ABS System may not function properly.
	Air Bag Light – This Light will come one when the OBD System has detected a problem with the SRS (Supplemental Restrain System) System. Be cautious because this light could mean that your airbag will not deploy in the event of an accident.
	Battery Light – This Light will come one when the OBD System has detected a problem with the Starting & Charging System.
	Brake System Light – This Light will come one when the OBD System has detected a problem with the Braking System that is not related to the ABS System.
	Check Engine Light of CEL – This Light will come on for a number of different reasons. Most commonly the OBD System has detecting a problem in the engine, drive train, or emission system.
	Low Fuel Light – You need to refuel. Normally with in 15-20 miles of the light coming on.
	Low Oil Pressure Light – This light means that the OBD System is detecting low engine oil pressure. You should pull over immediately and call a tow service, driving your car with improper oil pressure can ruin you engine in a few miles.
	Temperature Warning Light – Means that the OBD System has detected that the engine temperature is above normal operating condition. This is another case where you should pull over immediately, driving with the engine overheating can cause sever damage in a short amount of time.
	Tire Pressure Monitor – This means that the TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) has detected that the air pressure in your tire(s) is out of spec.

Tips for Replacing Your Car Windshield

By Dallas Council on June 8, 2012 / General Interest, Repair & Maintenance Advise, Uncategorized / Leave a comment

When faced with replacing your car windshield, many vehicle owners default to the lowest-price option. If you take this route and are in a serious accident, your decision could cost you your life.

An incorrectly installed car windshield could pop out in an accident, allowing the roof to cave in and crush the car’s occupants. Additionally, when the front airbags deploy, they exert a tremendous force on your car windshield and will blow out one that is not properly glued in place.

Using original manufacturer’s glass is a plus, but choosing a good installer is even more important. Find a certified shop, The National Glass Association offers a feature to find certified installers. Certification is valuable because it keeps installers up to date on advances in adhesives and changing automotive designs.

Officials agree that there are many “tailgaters”, installers with no brick-and-mortar shop who quickly “slam” windshields into cars with little regard for safety. They don’t handle the car windshield correctly, don’t use the proper adhesives and leave the car unsafe for driving and prone to rusting and leaks.

What drivers need to understand is that the windshield is the No. 1 safety restraint in your vehicle. The windshield is created with two sheets of glass held together by an inner layer of strong vinyl. When the windshield breaks, the vinyl holds the glass in place rather than allowing the shards to fall into the car and cut the occupants.

The windshield is a layer of protection that keeps you inside the car and things out of the car. This is not the place to shop price over protection.

If the windshield isn’t strong enough and an one is thrown from a speeding car, the odds of survival are much less. Thirty percent of all fatalities are due to people being ejected from their vehicle.

Note whether the technician is incorrectly installing the windshield by not wearing gloves. The grease from their hands often prevents the adhesives from bonding correctly, Some have even been caught failing to use all the necessary bonding agents, such as primer.

When you are looking for a good car windshield installer, try calling at least three shops and asking a few qualifying questions beyond just price and certification.

Ask the shops if they use original equipment glass, which is usually of higher quality and fits better. Ask how long the car should sit after the installation is complete. If they say right away, you should run in the opposite direction. A car should sit at least one hour before being driven and sometimes up to 12 hours.

If you take your car to a dealership for a windshield replacement, they will just subcontract the job to a local glass shop and mark up the price about 30 percent. Go directly to the glass shop to save money.

Most car windshield installation jobs take only about an hour and can be done at your home or office. Once the installer is finished, check for signs that the job was completed correctly. Make sure the molding is straight and that there is no sign of adhesives visible inside the car. The car should be clean inside. Debris or dirt left in your car could be the sign of sloppy workmanship.

Auto Body Repair, 5 Tips for a Smooth Experience

By Dallas Council on May 31, 2012 / General Interest, Repair & Maintenance Advise, Uncategorized / Leave a comment

As you watched the twisted mess of a car being towed away from the scene of an accident, how do you know that everything under the surface will really been fixed correctly?

One key to getting your car fixed right is choosing a reliable auto body shop in the first place. To better understand what to look for, here are some body shop tips to follow.

Have a Clear Understanding Up Front

The process of having your car fixed right starts when you drop it off. Be clear on what the shop is going to fix and how it will do the repair. Get everything in writing. Ask about the shop’s warranty on its work. When you return, review the paperwork to confirm that the shop did the repairs stated.

A reputable auto body facility will go through everything with you, walk you through all the steps they took. Good shops will go a step further and even touch up bolts under the hoods that have been scratched while being repaired.

A Clean Car Is Necessary

Appearances matter. When you pick up your car, it should have been washed, cleaned and vacuumed. There should be no dirt or dust in the car and definitely no old parts in the trunk. Some shops will even wash down the engine compartment before handing over the keys.

Closer Inspection

If the car’s general appearance passes muster, take a close look at the area that was repaired. If the gaps are obviously uneven, that’s a telltale sign of panels not being aligned correctly. Make sure the doors open and close properly with good alignment.

Front-end damage to a car, it can be difficult for an auto body shop to repair perfectly, one way to spot a problem is to look at the distance between the tire and fender. If it is wide on one side and narrow on the other, something wasn’t fixed properly. Another test is to turn on the headlights to ensure that the light beams are aligned.

When a car is hit in the front, the frame may have been bent requiring straightening on what the body shop calls “the rack.” The shop workers use it to pull the frame rails until the frame is straight.

Visual inspections might be difficult for the average consumer, look at the automated printout of the frame specifications. A good body shop will measure the damaged area of the car and then measure the frame again after it does the repair. The frame specs should be the same post-repair as they were before the accident. The frame spec printout is a good reference document to make sure the job has been done right.

Paint Jobs: Matching Colors and Consistency

One of the most challenging jobs in an auto body shop is paint matching. Punching in the factory paint codes get 95 percent of the way to matching the color, the remaining 5 percent has to be done by people who really know what they’re doing.

Arrange to pick up a car from the body shop during the day. If possible, look at the car in the sunlight to make sure that the new paint matches the car’s original shade and finish. Be certain to examine the paint for runs or imperfections such as hair or specks of dirt trapped in the finish.

When It Isn’t Fixed Right

Be courteous, not demanding when disputing an improper repair. If you start making accusations, things can go downhill fast. Everyone can make a mistake and a kind customer usually can get the job fixed faster.

Brake Repair Venice FL

By Dallas Council on May 25, 2012 / General Interest, Repair & Maintenance Advise, Videos / Leave a comment

Auto Repair Venice FL

By Dallas Council on May 24, 2012 / Repair & Maintenance Advise, Videos / Leave a comment

5 Things Every Woman Should Know About Their Car

By Dallas Council on May 22, 2012 / AAMCO Venice, Do It Your Self, General Interest, Repair & Maintenance Advise, Uncategorized / Leave a comment

While you may never have a flat tire, having a working knowledge of your car and what do to when the check engine light comes on can save you both time and money in the event of an auto emergency.

1) Know how to change a tire

Flat tires are the number one cause of auto emergencies. Whether a blowout at 70 mph on the freeway or a slow leak caused by a nail imbedded in the rubber, a flat tire will derail your trip faster than you can say, “what happened?” The key to changing your own tire is to have the proper equipment. Most importantly, keep your spare tire properly inflated and know where to find the jack and iron.

You should always loosen the lug nuts on your tire before you raise the car with the jack. It will be easier to exert force on the nut while the car is planted firmly on the ground. In the event your car has a hub cap that hides the lug nuts, keep a flat head screw driver in your cargo area as well.

Learn where to place the jack in order to properly lift the car. Your owner’s manual should have both a description of the process and an illustration. Putting the jack in the right place makes all the difference when you begin to lift. Follow the directions in your manual and you will be surprised at how easily you can raise the car to the right height.

After you have removed the damaged tire and put on your spare, tighten the lug nuts as much as you can with your hands and then give them a little turn with the tire iron. Follow a star pattern when tightening instead of going around the tire in a circle. This will help balance the tire and prevent one side from being over-tightened. After you have secured the tire, lower the car slowly to the ground. Once on the ground, use the tire iron to tighten the nuts as much as possible.

If your spare tire is smaller than your other three tires and only intended to be used as an emergency spare, it is important that you follow the directions in your manual and only drive at moderate speeds until you have the full size tire repaired and placed back on your car.

2) Know how the read both the gauges on your dash and the owner’s manual

The second most common auto emergency is a warning light on your dash board. Examples of warning lights are the Check Engine light, Oil light, ABS brake light, or Airbag light. A sudden illumination of any of these lights can mean a serious problem is occurring and you should have your car checked as quickly as possible. However with the modern computers in vehicles today sometimes the lights come on without a serious underlying problem. Sometimes the lights come on due to a faulty switch in the dash or a circuit that isn’t properly functioning.

The most important thing to remember about warning lights is that they are your car’s way of talking to you and you have to be able to understand what it is saying. Read your owner’s manual. Review the section on troubleshooting. Familiarize yourself with what the different warning lights look like when they are illuminated. Know that when the ABS light comes on you might need to have your brake fluid checked. Know that when the Airbag light comes on you could be driving with the risk that your airbag may not deploy in the event of a collision. Have it checked by the proper technician as soon as possible.

By knowing what your dash gauges mean and how to interpret them using the owner’s manual you can catch problems before they become serious, saving yourself money and potential lost time in the process.

3) Know how to check the oil and radiator fluid

Keeping your engine running smoothly is often as simple as making sure it has enough oil and radiator fluid. Automobile engines are made up of lots of little parts. These parts move interchangeably against each other thousands of times a minute and build up friction. Find where the dip sticks are for both engine oil and engine coolant. In many cars they are yellow in color and marked with a picture of either a drop of oil or some sort of liquid. Using your owner’s manual, determine the proper levels for both fluids. To get the most accurate reading, have your engine running when using the dip sticks.

Check your fluids once a month. In warmer weather you may need to check it twice a month. While it is normal to lose some fluid periodically between oil changes, if you find yourself having to add oil or engine coolant regularly to your car you should have it checked by a technician as soon as possible. This can be a sign of a more serious problem and having it repaired quickly will prevent further damage to your car’s engine.

4) Know how to jump the battery

Ever leave your head lights on accidentally? How about leaving the overhead light on all weekend? If so you have probably experienced a dead battery and have had to jump start your car. Jumping your battery requires jumper cables and another car that can start its engine. The key to jumping your car is to know that there is both a positive and negative cable which corresponds to the positive and negative posts on your battery. The posts are usually covered with a cap however once you remove the cap, the posts are marked with a + sign or a – sign. The cables will be marked as well. With both engines off, clamp the positive cable to the positive post and the negative cable to the negative post. Do this to both cars. Start the engine of the other car. Wait a minute or two to allow the charge from the running engine to flow through the cables into your battery and then try and start your car.

Once your car starts you can disconnect the cables and close the hood. Allowing your engine to run for about thirty minutes, or driving to your destination, will recharge your battery and you shouldn’t have trouble starting it again.

5) Change the wiper blades

Depending on the area you live in, having properly functioning windshield wipers can be critical to safe driving. Getting caught in the season’s first rainstorm with dry or brittle wiper blades can happen to anyone. Knowing how to change your own wiper blades however can get you quickly back on the road.

Many models have different size blades for each window. Determine what size blade you need and keep an extra pair on hand in the car. The manual will tell you how to remove the wiper blades and replace them.

Whether your car is five days or five years old, spending time getting to know the ins and outs of the owner’s manual, practicing some basic maintenance techniques, and purchasing just a few basic tools and supplies will keep you safer and keep your car on the road longer.

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Car Storage: 9 Tips You’ll Want to Remember

By Dallas Council on May 16, 2012 / Do It Your Self, General Interest, Repair & Maintenance Advise, Uncategorized / Leave a comment

A few things to consider about car storage. Perhaps you have a convertible that you only drive in the summer and store in the winter. Maybe you’re going to leave town for school or an extended vacation. Alternatively, you could be in the military and are being deployed overseas.

There are a myriad of reasons, for which you might need car storage. There are a number of things to do before you lock the door and walk away for any amount of time. If you simply let your vehicle sit on the street or in a garage for an extended period, you may return to a dead battery or worse yet a damaged engine, ruined tires and a critter’s nest under your hood.

Taking these 9 car storage precautions will not only ensure that your car starts when you return to it, but also ensure that its time in storage doesn’t shorten the life of the engine.

Keep It Covered

The ideal place for car storage is in a garage. This will protect it from the elements and keep it a relatively stable temperature. If you don’t have a garage, and you can find accommodation at a reasonable price, consider putting the car in a public storage facility.

If you have to leave the car outdoors, consider getting a weatherproof car cover. This will help keep the car clean and dry.

Clean It Up

It may seem counterintuitive to get the car washed when you’re putting it away for months, but it is a step that shouldn’t be overlooked. Water stains or bird droppings left on the car can damage the paint. Make sure to clean the wheels and undersides of the fenders to get rid of mud, grease or tar. You could even give the car a coat of wax.

Change the Oil

Skip this step if you’re only storing the car for a week or two. If you will be storing the vehicle for longer than 30 days, consider getting the oil changed. Used engine oil has contaminants that could damage the engine.

Top off the Tank

This is another long-term car storage tip. If you expect the car to be in storage for more than 30 days, fill the tank with gas. This will prevent moisture from accumulating inside the fuel tank and keep the seals from drying out. You should also purchase a fuel stabilizer to prevent ethanol buildup and protect the engine from gum, varnish and rust.

Keep It Charged

An unattended battery will eventually lose its charge. If possible, get someone to start the car every two weeks and drive it for about 15 minutes. Driving the car periodically has two benefits. It will maintain the battery’s charge, help the car “stretch its legs” and keep the engine and other components properly lubricated.

If no one is available to start the car, you can use the low-tech solution of disconnecting the negative battery cable. You can also purchase a battery tender, also known as a trickle charger. This device hooks up to your car battery on one end and plugs into a wall outlet on the other. It delivers just enough electrical power to prevent the battery from discharging.

Don’t Use the Parking Brake

If the brake pads make contact with the rotors for too long, there is a chance that they might fuse. Instead of engaging the brake, you can purchase a tire chock, to prevent the car from moving during car storage.

Prevent Flat Spots

Make sure your tires are inflated to the recommended tire pressure during car storage. Left too long under inflated tires get flat spots. This process occurs at a faster rate in colder temperatures and

Keep Critters Out

There are plenty of places in your car for critters to hide and plenty of things for them to chew on. Try to cover any gaps where a mouse could enter, such as the exhaust pipe or an air intake. Steel wool works well for this. Next, spread mothballs or cotton swabs dipped in peppermint oil along the perimeter of the vehicle. The smell is said to drive mice away.

Maintain Insurance

You might be tempted to cancel your auto insurance when your vehicle is in storage, which could cost you more in the long run. This can vary based on where you live and who your provider is, so contact your insurance company to see what options are available to you.

Sum… Sum… Summertime, Ready to Ride Again

Here’s a checklist of what to do when you’re ready to bring your vehicle out of storage:

* Check under the hood for any evidence of rodents. Look for chewed belts, hoses, wires or nests. If you covered the muffler or air intake, remove that material before you start the car.

* Check the windshield wipers to see if the rubber is cracked or brittle.

* Check tire pressure and inflate the tires to the recommended specs.

* Check the brakes. Rust may have accumulated on the rotors. In most cases, this should go away after you drive the vehicle for a short time.

Click here for a FREE, fresh out of the storage inspection…

* Check fluids to make sure there have been no leaks and that they are at the recommended levels.

* If the battery cable has been disconnected, make sure that you reconnect it and that the battery terminals are clean.

* Wash your vehicle to remove any dirt that may have accumulated.

Car Parts: Is it Better to Go With Aftermakret or OEM?

By Dallas Council on May 14, 2012 / General Interest, Repair & Maintenance Advise, Uncategorized / Leave a comment

When you take your car to the dealership’s service department for repairs, you know you’re getting Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) car parts. However, if you take your car to an independent shop, you’ll most likely get aftermarket car parts. Is there anything wrong with that? Does a less expensive part mean a poorer-quality part? When should you use only OEM parts?

These Pro’s and Con’s will help you strike a balance between cost and quality.

Aftermarket Car Parts

An aftermarket part is any part for a vehicle that is not sourced from the car’s maker. If the parts are direct replacement parts, they will not void your car’s warranty. A number of companies make car parts designed to function the same, or in some cases even better than the original.

PROS

* Less expensive: Aftermarket car parts are usually less expensive than OEM parts; how much you save varies by brand. If the price of a part seems too good to be true, ask questions about its quality.

* Quality can be equal to or greater than OEM: In some cases, you may end up with a better part than you started with may. The aftermarket companies reverse-engineer the part, and work the weaknesses out. For example, when an automaker designs its brake pads, it has to strike a balance between cost, durability, noise levels and performance. If you want better performance and don’t mind some extra brake noise (some brake pads squeak even though they are stopping the car effectively), an aftermarket pad may be your best choice.

* More variety: There are hundreds of companies that make aftermarket parts. Some specialize in specific parts, and other companies make almost any part you can think of. More variety means greater selection and a wider range of prices.

* Better availability: You can walk into any gas station, auto parts store or local mechanic, and they’re bound to have a part that fits your car. This gives you more options on where to take your car for service.

CONS

* Quality varies greatly: The saying “you get what you pay for” rings true here. Some aftermarket parts are inferior because of the use of lower-quality materials. Stick with aftermarket brands you’re familiar with or are recommended by a mechanic you trust, even if these parts cost a bit more.

* Overwhelming selection: If you’re not familiar with aftermarket brands, the selection could be overwhelming, and there’s some chance you may get a bad quality part. Consult your mechanic for advice or simply stick with the OEM part when the price difference isn’t significant.

* May not have a warranty: To keep costs down, some aftermarket parts are sold without a warranty.

OEM Car Parts

OEM parts are made by the vehicle’s manufacturer. These match the parts that came with your vehicle when it rolled off the assembly line.

PROS

* Easier to choose your car parts: If you go to the parts counter at a dealership and ask for any part, you’ll usually get one type. You don’t have to worry about assessing the quality of different brands and prices.

* Greater assurance of quality: The OEM part should work exactly as the one you are replacing. It is what the vehicle was manufactured with and provides a peace of mind in its familiarity and performance.

* Comes with a warranty: Automakers generally back up their OEM parts with a warranty. If you get your car repaired at the dealer, they’ll usually stand by their labor as well.

CONS

* More expensive: OEM car parts will cost more than an aftermarket part. When it comes to bodywork, OEM parts can cost up to 60 percent more. There is more of a burden on parts and service to increase a dealership’s profit, since the sales departments have been under performing as of late.

* Need to be bought at the dealership: Even though there are other ways of buying OEM parts (eBay, online wholesalers), most people will go to a dealership to buy their car parts. This limits the number of places where you can buy. You can request OEM parts from your local mechanic, but it may take longer to get your vehicle repaired since the parts must be ordered.

* Quality may not be superior: You paid the extra money for an OEM part, hoping that it was vastly better than an aftermarket part. That may not always be the case. Some aftermarket parts are equal to or in some cases better than OEM parts. You might be paying extra just for the name.

When Should You Request OEM Parts?

When it comes to collision repairs, make sure you are getting OEM parts, since aftermarket body panels may not fit properly or have proper crumple zones for crash safety.

If you lease your car, there are also economic considerations. Since aftermarket parts decrease a vehicle’s book value, using them to repair your vehicle’s body may cost you part or all of your security deposit.

Be aware, in up to 21 states in the US a body shop’s repair estimate does not have to indicate whether aftermarket parts will be used. You’ll often find that your insurance company will favor aftermarket parts because they are cheaper. If you request OEM parts, some insurance companies ask you to pay an additional fee. Check with your insurance provider beforehand, to see what parts they will cover.

5 Common Noises Your Car Might Make

By Dallas Council on May 7, 2012 / General Interest, Repair & Maintenance Advise, Uncategorized / Leave a comment

SHHHHHH, did you hear that? It sounds like it is going to explode! Is it coming from the engine or is that the transmission? No wait that is coming from the rear of the car. Dude… Pull over!

When your car starts making odd and they are sounds that you are not used to hearing, it can be bewildering. All cars will produce some sort of noise. It develops what some people refer to as a “character,” and these noises become part of the performance of the car. Noises such as these do not necessarily mean anything is wrong with your vehicle, we all get to know the noises of our cars, until one day it makes a noise that stands out from the “character” sounds. That’s when we tune in and become concerned. The following list explains some of these noises and what they may indicate.

1. Clicking and Tapping Sounds

A perceptible tapping or engine clicking noise coming from the front of your car will draw your attention. Your ears will perk up and you will tune in to the noise, open a window and try to figure out what is going on. The tapping or clicking will increase as you accelerate and become faster. This could be a lifter or what is known as a ‘tappet,’ or the upper valve train. The causes could be a number of issues stemming from worn parts. It could also indicate that the oil pressure is low. Check your oil pressure gauge when you hear this sound and follow the guidelines to determine the exact problem. Take the dipstick out and make sure you have enough oil. If the oil is fine head to your mechanics for some advanced diagnostics.

2. Deep Knocking Noises

Sounds like these are usually a sign of deep trouble and you should be concerned. ‘Rod knocking’ sounds could mean that one part deep inside the engine has worn out. If your rod bearings have worn completely out or become too loose, it is only a matter time before the bearings fail. In this case, you should not use the car until the knocking engine noise has been fully and properly tested, diagnosed and repaired.

3. Rattling and Droning Sounds

If you hear a drawn out droning or rattling engine noise from your car when you accelerate it could possibly be your camshaft belt is badly aligned or slipping. Have your belt checked or look it over yourself if you have the knowledge needed. It should really be fixed by a good mechanic; otherwise, if you don’t know exactly what you are doing, you could have more trouble further down the road.

4. Squealing when Accelerating

This is an unmistakable sound and it is quite ear splitting. This is your fan belt frankly telling you it is in a bit of pain. The fan belt can loosen over time and when you start your engine the fan belt can squeal when the rubber teeth underneath it start to drag. If the fan belt is loose, it will not be able to move at the same tempo as the pulleys, which control it, thus creating the intense squealing noise. If this happens with your vehicle, you should look in the manual for repair procedures and tighten it correctly. It may have worn to the point that it needs to be replaced.

5. Grinding Noise

If you hear a deep grinding noise, it may be your brakes. Have the front brake pads checked for signs of complete wear. If the metal is grinding against the rotors, you should have already had the brakes inspected some time ago and will likely have incurred some additional parts expense.

Noises by nature can be tricky to diagnosis. Sometimes they are there and sometime they are not. A noise that is coming from the rear can travel and sound like it is originating from the front. If you have any uncertainty, it is probably best to have the noise check by a professional with specialized equipment. This will guarantee that you car is diagnosed right the first time, saving you time and money.

Have an odd noise that you can’t figure out? Click Here for a free diagnosis

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Top Auto Repair Scams & How to Avoid Them

By Dallas Council on May 1, 2012 / General Interest, Repair & Maintenance Advise / 2 Comments

A trustworthy auto repair shop is vital to the safety of every motorist. Your shop can keep your vehicle running smoothly, fix dangerous crash damage, save you money, and protect you and your passengers from life-threatening harm while on the road.

Most auto repair shops are honest and professional, but some will try to defraud you and your insurance company.

What you should be on guard for:

Padding charges: Shops may offer reasonable verbal repair estimates, but present final bills that are far beyond the estimates. Or a mechanic may leave the estimated amount blank when you sign a repair authorization, then secretly fill in an inflated amount. Keep your eyes open and read absolutely everything and make certain there are no blank unfilled in spaces.

Needless repairs: A shop may pad bills by “repairing” mechanical problems and damage that don’t need a repair. True story: A driver on vacation noticed the car was leaking oil. He stopped at a local car dealership whose mechanic said he needed a new vacuum pump for $1,820. Stunned, the driver bought a seal for just $13 from an auto-parts store. This was all that was needed.

Counterfeit or used parts: Some dishonest shops install parts that are counterfeit, substandard or used, but charge you for expensive new parts. These parts can give out when you’re on the road, putting you and your family at risk. Used parts are viable for some repairs, but crooked body shops will bill you for new parts while installing used ones.

Shoddy work or none at all: An auto repair shop may cut corners by doing quick and shoddy work. Sometimes the mechanic also does no work at all, but bills you and your insurer for a full repair job. You may have to return several times—wasting your valuable time and causing needless headaches. Ask around about the repair shops reputation, check them out online and at the Chamber of Commerce before you decide.

Specials and maintenance hook schemes: Dishonest repair shops advertise super-low prices on specific repairs or check-ups then use these specials to bilk their customers. A simple oil-change-and-lube job can turn into expensive, unnecessary repairs.

The price you pay for fraudulent or shoddy repairs:

Lives & safety a risk: Your life may be in danger every time you step into a poorly repaired vehicle. True story: A mechanic fixed a damaged steering assembly with only a wire coat hanger. When the driver went back behind the wheel, the hanger broke. The car veered off the road and crashed into a guardrail.

Stress & wasted time: Nothing is more frustrating than getting repairs completed. Avoid the headaches and wasted time. Get it done right, and safely, the first time.

Higher insurance premiums: Inflated charges and unnecessary repairs can raise your insurance premiums—and premiums of every honest driver because the costs of fraud are passed to all policyholders.

What you can do to prevent this from happening:

Develop a long-term relationship with a repair shop you can trust. You’ll find fair prices and fewer headaches. More important, you’re protecting yourself and your family by ensuring your vehicle is safe to drive.

Seek recommendations: Your insurer should have a list of preferred auto repair shops in your area. Also ask friends, relatives and check with the local Chamber of Commerce. When checking out a shop, ask management for references or better yet customer testimonials and check to see if the shop has complaints on file by researching online.

Get a written estimate: This should include parts and labor—and get the estimate before you authorize repairs. Also make sure the shop agrees, in writing, to contact you for approval before performing work that exceeds a certain dollar amount.

Ask to see repairs: You want to see exactly what was done. Have them shop point out what parts were replaced or repaired. You should also see the old parts that were replaced.

Final bill higher than the estimate: Ask the shop to explain the extra charges. And make sure the invoice itemizes all work done, including parts, repairs and guarantees. If a problem occurs later, you can prove that service guarantees covered the repairs.

Does the shop seem professional: If not run, just turn and run from this shop now.

Still not happy: Explain your problem and have the shop correct it. If you still aren’t satisfied, complain to your local Better Business Bureau or consumer complaints services. If you suspect insurance fraud, contact the insurance company covering the repairs and they will take over.

Gas Mileage & How Your Car Tires Affect It

By Dallas Council on April 27, 2012 / Do It Your Self, General Interest, Repair & Maintenance Advise, Uncategorized / Leave a comment

Many people talk about things such as filters, fuel injector cleaners and regular oil changes as being crucial ways to boost one’s gas mileage and they all are. However; many overlook one of the most crucial aspects of their vehicle that also affect gas mileage in a great way… Your tires!

While maintaining your car will always result in better gas mileage and a longer, healthier life for your car. Selecting and maintaining the proper tires will not only keep you safe on the road, but it will also improve your fuel economy as well and here’s how…

Tire rubber is literally the only material connecting your ride to the road. That means the tires’ performance affects everything from speed, handling, braking, acceleration and of course gas mileage. Worn out tires are not only dangerous because they impair your cars handling, but they tend to slip more on the road requiring the engine to work harder to move the car. Likewise, a tire with low air pressure can cause the car’s weight to be magnified creating more friction between rubber and road. Again, this causes the engine to work harder to move the vehicle because the weight is not properly supported by correctly inflated tires.

A harder working engine not only affects the overall performance and life of a car, but it will drink more gas per mile then a car that has properly maintained tires. Keeping in mind that the only contact your car (which weighs thousands of pounds) has with the road below are a few inches of rubber, suddenly maintaining your tires of paramount importance. A little TLC for your tires will not only help your wallet, your safety, your car’s life, it will also help you squeeze every last drop out of your tank greatly increasing your gas mileage. Image of a Car Tire Inflated Properly

With all this said you should have your tires rotated every couple thousand miles and replaced as needed based on wear, and their ability to hold air pressure. Tires with leaks and holes in the side-wall can not be repaired and need to be replaced. Tires with plugs on the treads should be checked regularly and may require more frequent air pressure checks due to slow leaks. You should never exceed the maximum pressure listed on each tire, it is best to try to keep it 5 psi or so below the maximum, especially in hot weather because air can expand quicker on hot days. Hope this helps, here is to getting more out of every gallon through proper tire care.

Related Post:10 Gas Saving Tips, 9 Ways to Save Fuel, Maintaining Your Spare Tire

5 Steps to Keep Your Chrome Wheels Looking New

By Dallas Council on April 25, 2012 / Do It Your Self, General Interest, Repair & Maintenance Advise, Uncategorized / Leave a comment

Your chrome wheels and rims put in a hard day’s ride and then show the affects. Their good looks are still shining through, but are marred by brake dust, road tar, salt and other identifiable or mystery gunk on them. Cleaning them properly doesn’t just restore the full luster of chrome wheels; it gives them longevity, too.

Try these five cleaning tips to ensure long-lasting good looks and healthy chrome.

An important part of proper car care is keeping the wheels clean and free from brake dust and road grime. Following are some tips on how to restore even the dirtiest chrome wheels to their original brightness.

1) Rinse. Use easy pressure from a hose to rinse off what isn’t stuck onto the wheels or rims. Do this when they are cool – if they’re hot, water can work to remove softened wax from earlier maintenance. Don’t let salt sit. Speaking of pressure and hoses, never do this step at a commercial car wash. Their high-pressure hoses are not friendly to chrome.

2) Scrub. Use a very soft rag (Micro Fiber works great) to wash them using cool water, and just a bit of mild auto soap. Don’t press too hard. Give them a thorough cleaning, getting in all the grooves and contours. Slow and easy is the key. This takes a bit of time, patience, good music on the iPod, and a favorite beverage nearby. The point is to make it part of the fun you experience working on your car. It can be relaxing if you let it!

3) Inspect. Check the wheels for any residue that didn’t come off with the gentle wash. Have degreaser/bug remover/road tar products on hand, but make sure that they are specially formulated for chrome. Avoid anything with ammonia in it. Follow the instructions on the bottle carefully; being sure to remove the cleaner immediately after it does the job.

4) Examine. Take car in inspecting them for anything you might have missed and then thoroughly dry them. All water, especially hard water, can leave mineral stains or water spots. Use soft towels and be gentle.

5) Polish. The Final step is to apply several coats of polish and wax to help keep them clean. This will also make the job of much easier next time. Wax will help repel break dust and road grime, for a longer lasting shine!

A great rule of thumb is to wash off that road junk as soon as possible, and then dry them. Even a quick rinse is better than nothing.

To keep that clean chrome in tip-top shape, avoid taking them down gravel roads. Small stones kicked up against the chrome can chip off wax, leaving the chrome vulnerable, or it can do worse damage than that. If you have to go down that road, do it slow and easy, and looking good!

Related Post: A Clean Car Is A Healthy Car

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